This page shows how I mounted handlebar risers on my 2003 Yamaha FJR1300. My friend Alfons bought them for me in Germany, and shipped them to me as a gift. They came from this Website, where they are called "Lenker-Adapters".

They raise the bars by 3/4", and more importantly, allow you to change the angle of the bars as well. The hardware is made from solid chrome-like stainless steel, and the parts are beautiful enough to be museum pieces.

I also got the guage that can be used to precicely align the handlebars when changing their angle.

You can see the two halves of the riser, which allows the upper half to be rotated on the solidly mounted lower half. The top half is then anchored via a pinch-bolt and two set screws.

The directions were in German, of course, so I used Bablefish to do a rough translation to English. Assembly and mounting is pretty straight-forward, however, and presented no problems.

First, I used some duct tape and a pen to mark the orientation of the bars prior to removing them. This turned out to be unnecessary as you'll see below.

I put a folded towel on the fairing, then removed the left handlebar and set it on the towel. Strangely, the FJR1300 SERVICE MANUAL doesn't offer much help in how to do this, other than mentioning that the torque value for the bolts is 17 ft/lbs (23 Nm). The little chrome plastic caps over the retaining bolts are easily removed by prying under them with your fingernails.

The upper (rotating) half of the riser contains a large hole through which you can insert the new mounting bolts. There are three of them. Put them in loose first, then tighten to 17 ft/lbs (23 Nm).

Then comes the realization that you have to decide what angle you're going to use for the handlebars before you finish attaching them. This is because the pinch-bolt (the allen-head of which you can just see in the photo above) is apparently not secure enough to suit those picky German engineers.   :-)   You need to also put in the two set screws, one of which is shown being tightened in the above photo. Run them to 9 ft/lbs (12 Nm).

I realized I could use the holes in the top half of the riser to accurately judge how much I deviated from the stock handlebar angle. I positioned it so that it was about 1/2 of a mounting hole angled more outward. That is, the handlebar ends moved forward just a tiny bit compared to stock.

The photo above shows how much this angle change involved. Only the left riser is installed at this point. And the chrome plastic bolt covers haven't been reinstalled yet either.

Does it work?

I had been experiencing right wrist pain on my FJR, only on the right wrist, and not on any of my other bikes. I also was getting a bit sore from the stock saddle. Several other FJR owners have told me they get the same right wrist pain on their FJRs. Seems to be a common complaint.

I'd say that even though the Lenker-Adapters are only 3/4" taller, they are worth the $90 or so that they cost. I didn't experience either a sore wrist or tired butt on the 270 and 330 mile rides I did this past weekend. I must admit, though, that I also employed some tricks suggested to me: like resting my right index finger on the front brake (to force me to relax my grip), and frequently raising my butt off the seat a 1/2 dozen times, just to get the blood flow going again.

Copyright © 2002, by H. Marc Lewis. All rights reserved.